Madison Restaurant Review: Fresco

I’m not sure where to begin here other then to say it’s been almost a month since I dined at Fresco and I can’t get it out of my head. Part of the reason for the delay in posting the review was that I needed some time to see if the meal’s grand impression stayed with me. The other reason was selfish, in that I wanted to hold off until my partner and bride-to-be secured a large table for our small unification procedure. Now that both reasons have been satisfied it’s on to the review.

Fresco sits atop the non-ugly part of the Overture Arts Center in downtown Madison. For those not in the know, it’s the part housing the Madison Museum of Art. The restaurant’s simple clean lines and open space blend perfectly into its modern setting, right down to its place mats. We arrived on a Saturday night in June and the space was beautifully lit by the summer sun. There’s not a bad spot in the house as you have views of the Capital, State St., and the adjoining sculpture garden.

While the setting is stunning it’s the food that takes Fresco to another level. Easily my best meal of 2008, Fresco’s contemporary cuisine stunned us at every turn with its layers of flavor and presentation. We started with the lamb sliders, which layered perfectly cooked slices of lamb on a buttery bun with a beet aioli. The accompanying Napa cabbage/ apple slaw nearly stole the show, as its bitter/sweet balance was truly masterful. The shrimp Diablo was a slightly less successful starter and the only misstep from the kitchen on our visit. While the spicy shrimp were cooked perfectly and had nice flavor, the jicama orange salad that came with, was bland and non-descript. As we were vetting the restaurant for our dinner party, we thought we’d try a salad that was the furthest from our comfort zone, figuring that if we enjoyed that then we’d enjoy everything. With that said, we tackled the spring beet salad as neither of us liked beets. Consider us beet fans now. The meaty selection of beats contrasted with the warm chevre cheese, and the subtle bacon flavor in the walnut vinaigrette was a joy to discover. Entrees continued to impress as my halibut in spring lemon beurre blanc exceeded the halibut I recently enjoyed in Alaska. The goat cheese mashed potatoes that lay under the halibut may have been the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever had, and believe me I’ve had a lot. My partner’s beef tenderloin was cooked perfectly and topped with caramelized bbq onions that could have been a starter all on their own. A subtle bleu cheese melted into roasted potatoes and asparagus made for yet another strong side dish. Again since we were trying everything we opted for two desserts as well. My beignets were ever so slightly infused with chocolate sauce and once dipped in the crème anglaise sauce literally melted in my mouth. The dark chocolate cake filled with orange cream was yet another success as it stood out from your standard molten chocolate cake.

The accompanying drink selection certainly compliments the food and holds it own as well. We sampled two of their summer martinis. The lush (a combo of Ketel one citron, Chambord, and sour) was the star of the show while the succulent (midori & champagne) was slightly less successful but still very enjoyable. The wine list is extensive especially when taking into account their reserve list.

Service lived up to the high standards set by the food, drink and setting. Our server allowed us to go at our own pace and the kitchen matched that perfectly. Not since my last visit to Madison’s venerable L’Etoile have I been so pleased with service. The front house staff was equally seamless and was wonderful in answering our questions about large parties.

Fresco has a changing seasonal menu, so when you read this you may find some changes. However, based on the exceptional meal we had I think you can consider it truly a dining experience for all seasons.

Fresco, 227 State St, Madison, WI, 608-663-7374