Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Madison Brunch Review: The Old Fashioned

While I haven’t officially reviewed Madison’s tribute to all culinary things Wisconsin, aka The Old Fashioned, I’m on the books as being a huge fan. However I’ve never made it up in time to experience their brunch menu. We first attempted to hit the place on Saturday around noon thinking the Farmer’s Market crowds might have cleared out. Whoops! The place was packed like it was 6:30 at night. With a wait over 30 minutes we postponed our date with delicacies until Sunday. Arriving around 11am on Sunday proved a much better plan of attack. While the place was still humming, we only had about a 10 minute wait. The décor of the place really pops in the daylight compared to the dimly lit ambiance of the evening. I never tire of scanning the walls for the little touches in the Old Style, PBR, or Schlitz signage.

Faithful readers will know that my first impressions of a brunch destination are tied to the drink menu. One companion squealed in delight upon finding her favorite Earl Grey tea on the menu. I on the other hand was eager to sample either their Bloody Mary or Ginger Bloody Mary. Sadly I picked incorrectly. While the pickled asparagus and brussel sprout were divine, their house Bloody Mary was not mixed well and was rather bland. The horseradish was too choppy and no amount of stirring was going to get it to spread. Also the drink lacked celery salt and a rim of spices. Conversely the Ginger Bloody Mary was a delight. While the pickled veggies were MIA the ginger infused vodka stole the show. I was tempted to swap drinks with my partner and steal hers.

While the drinks were inconsistent the food scored perfect marks across the board. I fell out of the brunch mode and went with the house burger. The high quality, perfectly cooked meat was the star of the burger but it got strong supporting performances from the garlic mayo, fried onions, thick bacon, and local cheddar. The matchstick fries were light as air and a good compliment to the heavy burger. My two companions both went the breakfast route. The Wisconsin Benedict featuring eggs, bratwurst, and mustard cream sauce over English muffins were an ode to lumberjacks everywhere. The sauce was so good I could drink it. The Chicken Fried Steak special was an ode to parts South but equally delicious. The gravy clung to the crisply fried steak in harmony. Perhaps the biggest stars were the potatoes that accompanied both breakfast dishes. It appeared as if the cubes of tater where pan fried then sprinkled with cheese before a couple of seconds in the deep fryer. The crisp flavor cut across both main dishes and could be a meal all to themselves.

While the menu is relatively small compared to their regular menu, the specials and varied preparations make this a repeat brunch destination. Here’s hoping their Bloody mix matches their veggies for flavor. If that happens, The Old Fashioned may pull into a battle for my favorite brunch spot.

The Old Fashioned, 23 N. Pinckney St., Madison, WI, 608.310.4545

Old Fashioned on Urbanspoon

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