Most Disappointing: Figlio (www.figlio.com 3001 Hennepin Ave S, Minneapolis, MN, 612-822-1688)
As a restaurant I’ve frequented since childhood, Figlio holds a special place in my culinary heart. However my two visits in 2007 were marked with sadness. On both occasions I or someone I dined with had pasta dishes where the pasta had not been properly drained. The wait staff seems to have stopped caring about the little things like fresh ground pepper being offered on salads. You shouldn’t have to ask when you can clearly see giant grinders located at every bus station. All is not lost as the menu is still fun and while their classic Fettuccini Alfredo has become forgettable their sweet potato fries and small plates are still quite good. It seems like the folks at Figlio have finally fallen pray to laziness after 20 plus years of outstanding dining hopefully 2008 will bring a return to form.
Honorable Mention: Café Maude (www.cafemaude.com 5411 Penn Ave. South, Minneapolis, MN, 612-822-5411)
In my review last month I praised this gem as being the perfect fit for my former neighborhood. Clearly my praise is not needed as this new restaurant has taken the south side by storm. Their mixoligist is the tops in the Twin Cities right now whether it’s the bacon infused Bloody Homer or the Jackpot Martini. The food is simple and accessible. Especially noteworthy are the fresh cut fries with cheese fondue.
5. 20.21 (www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/finedining/2021/minneapolis/index Walker Art Center 1750 Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis, MN, 612-253-3410)
2006’s best restaurant makes another return to my favorites in 2007. While the menu is constantly evolving and changing, executive chef Scott Irestone expertly layers flavors in every plate out of his kitchen. Something as simple as Tempura Shrimp comes alive with a pickled ginger vinaigrette. More complex dishes like the Korean Beef Shortribs find a beautiful balance of comfort and exoticness. The family style service is always top notch and the wine list is expansive and reasonable. After two years this is the brightest jewel in the crown of the new Walker Art Center.
4. Bennett’s on the Lake (Duluth, MN, Currently Closed)
Sadly my favorite restaurant in Duluth went dark this year but before it closed its doors I was able to enjoy one final meal while celebrating my friend Nikki’s birthday. Set in the Fitger’s Hotel complex, Bennett’s offered a breathtaking view of Lake Superior and some of the most elegant food in Duluth. A large group of us were able to pick and choose our way through the menu which still featured their signature Southwestern Egg Rolls. While that idea has become popular in the Chili’s and Friday’s of the world now, Bennett’s was serving up the spicy wraps long before chain restaurants were giving the dish a bad name. The chef’s highly touted use of bleu cheese was apparent in a number of dishes ranging from apps to entrees. It was a worthy last supper for a restaurant that I’ve been with since the start. Here’s hoping the rumored reopening in a new location comes to fruition.
3. Peasant (www.peasantnyc.com 194 Elizabeth St, New York, NY, 212-965-9511)
Its nice to know you can find value and fine dining in one place in Manhattan. Located in Nolita, this small rustic Italian cookery keeps their menu simple and their flavors bold. On my first trip back to New York in years I wanted to sit down to at least one fine meal and when one of my travel companions picked up this recommendation it sounded perfect. While my companions and I struggled a bit in translating the menu, the wait staff was helpful and educated. A starter of fresh buffalo mozzarella and wood roasted peppers was satisfying but not filling. On the flip side of the spectrum a white asparagus risotto was rich, filling, and bordering on sinful, although it was out of place on a summer menu. The star of the show though was the spaghetti with lobster. At $26 this seemed like a value for merely pieces of lobster but imagine the surprise when the plate arrived to find literally a split of a good sized whole lobster. The simple butter and herb sauce was amazing and made this dish my second favorite of the year.
2. L’Etoile (www.letoile-restaurant.com 25 North Pinckney Street, Madison, WI, 608-251-0500)
The best fine dining restaurant I’ve ever been to continues to excel in its 30th year of business. The restaurant still cares about its food and its customers which I observed on my latest visit with the amuse-bouches the chef clearly likes whipping up in between courses and the time the staff took to place birthday wishes to my mother on their menu. While the kitchen’s use of local and sustainable agriculture brought it national fame the real notoriety comes from what they do with those ingredients. My grass fed beef tenderloin with bone marrow and blue cheese butter was the finest piece of steak I had in 2007 and the fact that it featured two ingredients I’m not crazy about (bone marrow and blue cheese) should tell you just how amazing the dish was. A cucumber martini was light and refreshing on a brisk fall day on my last visit and the wine list is quite possibly the best in the state. While Madison has grown over the years and the restaurant scene with it, L’Etoile remains the class of the capital city.
1. The Bulldog NE (www.thebulldogmpls.com/ne_index 401 East Hennepin Avenue, Minneapolis, MN, 612-378-BULL)
No new restaurant has ever made the impact on me in one short year than the Bulldog Northeast. While it doesn’t hurt that the restaurant/bar is long stumble or short cab ride from my house, I swear I’d drive hours for this food. This is the bar chic’ movement at its finest. The truffle oil and parmesan fries are the best fries in Minneapolis and I would put them against any in the country. They literally melt in your mouth after the initial crisp bite. Their burgers aren’t far behind and whether you go with more traditional flavors like the Junk Burger (cheese, bacon mushrooms) or more interesting like the Rooster Burger (Sriracha glaze, housemade sweet pickles, roasted garlic aioli) you’re guaranteed to enjoy some of the finest hamburger meat you’ve ever had. Nachos are kicked up a notch and the chili is the best I’ve ever had not made by myself or my father. The service can be slow at times but its worth the wait and with a million flat screen TVs covering the exposed brick walls you’ll always have something to keep your attention. Thankfully the place is still crazy popular after a year so it looks like we’re guaranteed to enjoy this amazing food for years to come.
Looking Ahead to 2008: Porter & Frye (www.ivympls.com Minneapolis, MN)
This new luxury hotel and condo complex Hotel Ivy will not only feature a restored historic building, but also a restored chef. Steven Brown who excelled in the kitchen but failed commercially with Rock Star a few years back returned in 2007 with a bang by running another bar chic’ emporium in Minneapolis called Harry’s. After getting that enterprise up and running he departed to this highly anticipated enterprise. While I will miss his pork stuffed burgers I’m eager to see him bring his modern American cooking to this upscale joint in 2008.
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